May started with a frisson of emotion in a Californian garden: my first encounter with Meyer lemons, of Alice Waters fame. I stepped up close to a tree, and smelled the thick rind of a specimen freshly picked. The lady of the house does all sorts of things with them in her kitchen and isn't prepared to live in a country that doesn't have lemon trees in gardens. And I, I am left with a new desire: the desire to handle this fruit one day and be overwhelmed by its fragrance.
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